Past Gardening Methods - Show and Tell!

The 4th and final post in the "6 Rules of Gardening" series.

     When you're a gardener, you're an experimenter, a scientist of sorts.  You research, gather information, and attempt to prove the validity of said information by putting the concepts into practice.  There is definitely a learning process involved, and in trying new things sometimes we fall backward rather than moving forward along the progression.  Ok, lets be honest, sometimes we catapult backward 150 miles an hour, and wonder what the heck we did wrong.  But at my house, I call that "Adventure!"

     My first real garden was probably around the Summer of 2000.  The hubby and I borrowed a gigantic moose tiller from a neighbor to loosen up our mouse sized garden plot.  Lets just say that was quite a job!  Then we formed wide raised rows, covered them with black plastic, cut holes in it and planted started plants from the nursery.   It was a beautiful garden with a bountiful harvest.   I don't remember all the things we grew, but I do remember cutting off tons of stems of green tomatoes right before a big frost, and bringing them inside in boxes to ripen.  This method seemed to work ok, but I was amazed how many weeds still grew beneath the plastic, and made their way over to the holes where the plants were growing.  Not to mention it was a heck of a lot of work.

I actually found some pictures of it!  Hooray!   Click to Enlarge!

 

 The next few years at our next home, we grew corn, tomatoes, peppers, squash, and gourds.  Seemingly without struggle, if I remember.  With the exception of weeds.  (I hate weeds by the way... I don't consider weeding therapeutic as some do.   If I'm gardening, I want results, not weeds. :-) )  Heres a fun story:

I remember we had a tiny little gourd plant that wasn't doing well.  It lost 3 of its only 4 leaves within the first week we planted it.  I thought for sure it was a goner.  Then one day my sister-in-law came by and I showed her my garden.  She asked about the sad little plant and I told her it would probably die.  She knelt down, caressed the plant, named it Joe, and told it to be fruitful and multiply, or something like that.  Then she kissed the leaf, got up and walked away.  I stood there thinking what a crazy loon!    The next day the last leaf fell off.  "Pah!" I thought, "talking to plants... whatever!"  Well 2 days after that the plant had new growth.  A week later it had 4 or 5 new leaves.  And every day after that it seemed to double in size.  Within a few short weeks it had vined and traveled to the back fence a few feet away.  That one plant grew enough vines to cover the entire back fence (We're talking 20 feet or so) and produced more than 150 gourds that summer.  It was the nuttiest thing I had ever seen.  Still I wasn't about to put the plant whisperer on any pedestals quite yet.

Another move, another chance to setup my garden.  This time I chose Square foot gardening.  My hubby helped me to build vinyl boxes, and we even ran water lines directly to the boxes.  I used "Mel's Mix" (A recommended soil mix in the Square foot gardening book) to fill the boxes, and I planted.  The ground in this new home was like solid bedrock.   When were planting our fruit trees, I bought both the boys their very own Pick Axe.  And every time they dug a hole, they came up with an 18 inch boulder.  It was a miracle we got anything in the ground at all, and an even greater miracle that it grew.   I liked the garden boxes, but I noticed that there was too much drainage.  The mix did not provide enough water holding properties and my garden was always dry.  We did still have a beautiful garden, and produced alot of food.  We even greenhoused it at the end of the season and kept tomatoes growing into December until the weight of the snow collapsed the plastic and the PVC supports.

I do like the SFG concept of growing lots of food in small spaces, AND I learned alot about vertical growing.  I grew a couple of 15 lb. Banana squash' vertically on the trellises I learned to make on the SFG website.  But I don't think the soil mix is ideal in the area I live in.  The weather here is much too dry.    I have pictures of this somewhere, but I couldn't locate them quickly, so I'll try to update this later.

I think what I'm getting at is that no one method is the "be all" and "end all" of gardening, and I think we can learn a lot by trying different methods.  And its FUN to learn new things, so by all means, try stuff!

When we moved into our current house, it was June, and I was desperate to get a garden in and growing as quickly as possible.  So I scanned the yard and tried to see what would be the easiest location to tackle quickly.   I decided to use the 6 inches of dirt between our block retaining wall and the fence.  Plus it was waist height and easy to care for.

Click to Enlarge!

I got over 300 tomatoes that year off of just a couple plants!

All the tomatoes, butternut squash, peppers, and cucumbers are from the garden.  It was so pretty I decided to decorate with it!

I have to be honest, my garden as evolved and changed every year, but I love it!  The last few years I have been using the mulching strategies I learned in the Back to Eden film,  and I feel like it has changed the whole game, and made things more doable.  I'm getting older, and could be in better shape, so the less physical maneuvering involved, the better!  Please, Please, Please!!!  Take time to watch the film.  If you love to garden, it will be time well spent!   Good luck, and please post your questions and feedback below!  I'd love to answer garden questions you may have and help you have a successful year!

Also search "Garden" at the top of the page to find all of my other posts on Gardening and see photos of my more recent gardens, raspberry boxes, and more!

A Raspberry Patch

Below you will see the evolution of my Raspberry Patch.  The first 4 pictures are from Spring of 2012.  The rest are from this Spring (2013).  Remember, you can always click on the photos to Zoom in.






Clockwise, from top left, I tilled up some grass, raked out the grass and roots, planted Raspberry Starts, and then mulched with Goat Manure/Hay mix, and then Straw in the middle.   I did put Cardboard under the mulch.  This was BEFORE I watched the Back to Eden Film.   I don't necessarily think what I did was  a bad thing, except the tilling was unnecessary.  I could've just planted directly IN the grass and then put Newspaper around all of the plants, and composted and mulched on top.

Here is My Raspberry patch THIS year.  I should've gotten a photo when everything was green.  I did get several handfuls of beautiful Raspberries in the fall.  The tips of the plants bore, as you can see in the photos.

We put those Raspberries in in a hurry, so I didn't really do everything how it should be.  So this year we went out and worked on the patch some more.

My tough kids hauling the railroad ties.

Railroad ties in place with newspaper under to help kill the grass.

Stakes in place to run ropes for supporting raspberries.  I also mildly pruned the berries.

I read that you should prune anything that fruited the year before.  So I did.  Then I read that Raspberries that fruit the first year, will usually fruit on the end.  But if you leave those canes, they will produce the rest of the way the second year.  So unfortunately I won't find out if that's true.  Also  I hope with all the mulch I added, that the Raspberries aren't buried so deep that they can't find their way out.  Updates will follow as I see progress.

A Garden Box Tale

    This is sort of a Show and Tell post so you can see some of the particular areas I'm working on in my yard.  I will try to scatter a few more of this type of post in between so you can see the applications of what I am writing about.

    Last week, I was digging in a garden box that i had also mulched last year,  to see what its looking like underneath.   This box had been the vein of my existence for almost the whole time we’ve lived here.  When we moved in it was full of Golden Raspberries, but it was so overgrown with grass, that in an attempt to dig out all the grass, we slaughtered most of the Raspberries.   

     I dug that box out every year for three years, and replaced the soil, with potting soil, and every year it was overtaken again.  Last year, after watching the Eden Film,  I decided to give it one last try.  I covered up the grass with 4 layers of newspaper, and added the 4 inches of mulch, and then planted several starts from my greenhouse in it.   The plants did not do so well,  (the box is to the far left of the photo) because the soil composition was not good to start with.  There was a strange powdery mineral type substance that was surfacing in a few places on the top of the box.  This was the only picture I could find of it from last year.  But I know the mulching was working its magic on the ground beneath though, because this year, the grass is gone and I found beautiful, dark composted organic material and several worms crawling around. 

This is what it looked like when I went out to clean and prep it for this year.  There is a tiny bit of grass in the corners, but it came right out.

Look at this rich soil!  See the worm in the middle?

I am excited to plant in here again this year.  Plus a few of the Raspberries popped up last year on one end of the box, so I will let them take over again, little by little, and let the box go back to being a raspberry patch.  Only this time, one without weeds!

I added another couple inches of Mulch and then wrapped a short fence around the base, to discourage my Chickens from digging in there and throwing out all the mulch.  We'll see if it worked.  :-)

Composting, Let's Keep it Simple!

         There's actually a lot of science and good information behind composting, but I want to start out simple.  I wan't you to read this and think to yourself, "I can do this!"  And really, it IS simple, and can continue to be until you find yourself having a greater need an purpose for your compost.  I remember the huge round composting cages my great grandfather had on his property in California.  I think he must’ve truly been the master gardener in the family.  The garden was massive, and there were fruit trees everywhere, and don’t forget my Grandma’s fresh Strawberry Rhubarb pie, straight from the garden.  I only wish I had been old enough to really learn from them.  Gardens were a necessary way of life in their day.  You gardened because you wanted to eat.  

     When I first tried composting, I bought one of those Stationary black bins with a lid and just started throwing all of my kitchen scraps in it.  While in theory I wasn't doing anything wrong, Compost needs air, and water to properly break down and heat up.  And it was pretty hard to “stir” anything in such a narrow space.   So on my second attempt, I decided to do “open composting” where my pile was out in the open and somewhat contained.   I purchased some 4 ft. T-posts from Home Depot along with some 2 ft. wire fencing.  I basically made an “E” shape with two sections so I could keep track of older and newer compost and be able to get a pitch fork in there and mix it around good.

I am by no means, an artist, but I thought it would be helpful for you do have a sketch of what I’m talking about.   I can’t even take a picture of mine, because its piled so high, you  wouldn’t be able to see the stakes anymore.  So basically there are 6 T-Posts, and I’ve wrapped and attached the wire grid all the way around.  You want to keep it nice and tight so it can help support your pile as it grows and as you mix it.  I have found that the easiest way to mix well is to use a pitch fork.  You basically throw everything out of your pile, and make a new pile on the ground beside it, effectively mixing as you go.  Then pitch it all back in.  I only have to do this maybe every month or so.  But for me, this was still a lot of work so I wanted a better solution.

A few years ago I found a Rotating Compost Bin that would hold 80 gallons!  (Thats over 10 Cubic feet!)

And finally it was something I could handle!  It is made by “Lifetime Products” so it is very good quality.  I purchased 3 and had my teenage boys assemble them, so we could put them to use immediately.   I still use my old compost “frame” as a holding tank for fresh manure, leaves and lawn clippings to start decomposing before adding them to my composter.  The reason this works so well is because it makes it so easy to give compost the 3 things it needs most.  Heat, Air, and water.   I simply open the latched lid on my composter and wet it down with a hose once a week, as well as dump in my kitchen scraps whenever I have them.  And then turn the barrel a few times and I’m done.   The black barrel absorbs the heat from the sun, so even if we only turn it once a week, we get compost in about 2 months.  I think if we were out there turning it daily it might result in compost much quicker.

I know you guys are probably starting to think I am just selling you something here, but truthfully, I USE everything I recommend to you.  I  am a big fan of technology in all departments of life.  I love gadgets and things that make life easier.  And without alot of these “tools” and “gadgets” I wouldn’t have the time or energy to accomplish much of what i do.  I also realize as a prepper, that it will be a sad day around here if the power goes out and I have to do things the old fashioned way.  :-)

Back to compost.  Theres a few other things to be aware of if wanting to create good compost rapidly. 

1.) Size matters - If you start throwing in big orange peels and banana peels and Pineapple greens, you are going to be able to recognize them for the next 6 months in your bin, likely.  It is much better to break things down to a smaller size.  This allows more surface contact with other decomposing materials, water, and heat, allowing these items to decompose more quickly.  There are a few easy ways to  break these things down.  If you juice with a masticating juicer, when you’re done, simply run your citrus peels through the juicer, it breaks them into bits, effortlessly, and you can just add it with the pulp from your juicer, into your composter.  Also throwing items like egg shells and banana peels into your food processor for a quick whiz can help as well.  I’ve even just snipped them up with a pair of kitchen scissors as I’m holding them over the bin.  

      If your not interested in the additional effort.  Use those items differently.  For example, Banana peels are said to have a highly positive effect on Rose bushes and other Acid Craving plants.   Rake away some of the mulch around those things and bury a few banana peels underneath.  

   2.) You need to make sure you have a good ration of Brown waste compared to Green waste.  What does this mean?  Different waste contains different nutrients, and decomposes at different rates.  Remember the science I was talking about?  Things that decompose faster, produce heat and help to decompose items that may rot more slowly.  I will create a list at the bottom of the post to help guide you. 

   3.)Use an existing compost mix to get a head start.  You could almost compare compost to yogurt here.  It is loaded with microorganisms (ie: good bacteria)  that work together to break down the raw materials (ie: milk)  So if you start with compost that has already gone through the process and contains the nutrients and composition you are hoping for, this can speed up the process.  Be sure to save some of your newly made rich compost to start your next batch.

Brown (Carbon)	Green (Nitrogen)	DONT USE AT ALL
Dry Leaves Pine Needles Newspaper (shredded) Sawdust Wood chips/ shavings Twigs Hay/Straw Peanut Shells Cold Ashes from wood Dryer lint Cereal boxes (shredded)	Fruit & Veggie Scraps Grass Clippings Coffee Grounds Manure from horse, cow, Goat, Chicken, Bat, etc. Egg Shells Tea Bags/leaves Plant trimmings Moldy Bread Banana peels pulp from juicer	Milk Fat Meat Domestic Pet Waste Bones Oils Diseased Plants (Can spread disease) Inorganic materials

     Basically you need about a 50/50 ratio of Green and Brown.  So to make it easy, I like to keep a bag of last years leaves next to the composter and every time I dump a bin of kitchen scraps, I add about the same volume of dry leaves to the composter and spin it.  

      If you are filling up your composter little by little, you want to make sure that when its relatively full, you stop adding new waste to it for 6-8 weeks until you have developed your compost.  Because otherwise you will always have bitts of un-composted materials in there.  This is why I have 3 bins.  I only actively ad to one or two at a time.  That way I have a sort of rotation of Compost in progress, Compost ready to use, and a  bin for adding to.   And truthfully, in the winter, I don’t add scraps to my bins.  I give them to the geese and chickens because there is nothing for them to forage on when there is so much snow, so I dump my juice pulp and other scraps, including the crumbs from the bottom of cereal boxes (Healthy cereals) old bread, etc. to help supplement their diets in the winter.  

     Also, I am rather lucky to have a natural Brown/green mix occuring daily in my backyard.  What? No fair, you say?  It is the combination of goat poo mixed in with the discarded hay from the feeder.   We pull out at least a wagon load each week and ad to the “holding compost pile” before putting into the composter.   I have to say this combination along with twigs, leaves, and kitchen scraps have made an amazing compost for my garden each year. 

    Goat berries are not as hot as Chicken manure so they can even be put straight into the garden non-composted.  The mix works as a mulch to begin with, and then with watering and decomposition the nutrients are released into the soil. Please feel free to ask your questions, and share your thoughts below!

Pruning Trees to Grow Low and Produce More Fruit

Fruit trees are one of my passions.  It is the naturalist and the prepper in me that dreams about picking fruit off of my own trees, eating it, canning it, and baking with it.  We have moved a lot in our married life, and I have planted fruit trees in every house we have lived in, and never stayed long enough to eat the fruit.  :-(  Our first house I planted 2 apple trees, and we moved 2 years later.  Our next home I planted a couple more, and we moved again.  Our 3rd home I thought we would be there long term, so I planted 9 trees, all different varieties, and 3 years later, just before we moved, my Apricot tree fruited.  I was so excited, I watched every day, waiting for the perfect day to pick them.   One evening as I inspected the fruit and decided it was ready, I resolved to pick it in the morning because I heard that fruit picked in the morning is always sweeter.   The next morning I went out with bucket in hand only to find Apricot pits all over the ground, and my tree picked clean.   The deer had beaten me to it!
     Tree pruning is like an ancient art form.   The first few times I tried it, I really wasn't sure that I was doing it right, and I probably wasn't completely.  But each year was a little better, and this year it was almost intuitive.  I could "see" what needed to be done in a way I hadn't realized before.  I still have a lot to learn, but I think my trees are starting to shape up nicely, and I'm excited to see how they grow.  This year I took before and after photos for a couple reasons.  First of all so I can track my progress, and secondly so I can show you what I'm talking about when I give you some pointers.

     This is my Dwarf Cherry tree. This is the only one that I didn't take photos of from consistent angles, but its a small tree, so I think you can get the idea.  The most important thing with these smaller trees is to open them up and allow light an air to flow through even after the leaves come in. Sweet Cherry trees should be pruned to a Modified leader system.  This means that the trunk extends from the ground all the way up to the where the highest branch begins to deviate.

    There are two main systems for pruning trees, the Modified Leader, and the open center.  I have a few examples of both to help you see what that means.   Open Center refers to a tree whose trunk divides into 4-5 branches going out laterally at a couple feet above the ground.

     This is a peach tree, and Peach trees should be trained to the "open center" system.  If you can see, I opened this tree up quite a bit, as well as "topped" the tree to maintain a low growing tree that will branch out laterally.   To encourage outward growth rather than upward, you follow a branch that is heading up and when it splits or a new branch is growing off of it, you cut off the original branch just beyond the new branch.  The tree will then focus its efforts on this newer portion as it is now all that is left on the end of this branch.  Click on each photo and view it larger so you can study the differences and try to understand how and why I pruned the way I did.

This is a 2nd year Nectarine tree, which I did some minimal pruning on to stimulate growth.  And actually I think that one coming straight off the top should go too.  Sometimes its a process, and when you step back and just look at your trees for a bit, its easier to get the whole picture.  When you are just doing minimal pruning, you want to take 1/3 of the total length off of branches that were last years growth.  This stimulates the tree to grow and produce more branches.                                                 

    

This is my Fuji apple tree.  It is in about its 5th year, and finally produced a few apples last year.  Not sure why its been struggling, but I think it is going to be great this year.  That is IF it produces.  Some apple trees only produce every other year.  As you can see, this one has some fun, funky growth patterns which I rather like, and am trying to encourage.  Mainly I opened this tree up, and topped several branches.  Also I directed some of the branches in the back to grow sideways as the neighbor has expressed that he'd prefer I don't let the tree grow over onto his side of the fence.   Even though you can't tell, there is plenty of room for this tree to grow without crossing the fence line, so I am trying to be a good neighbor and train it to grow wide rather than deep.  See the one branch jutting off to the right?   I could even support and stake that at some point if I wanted to continue the growth on that.  Also that one growing downward on the left should really be cut off, but I like it, so I'm going to watch it and see how it does.  This is another good one to zoom in on for detail.
     I got a lot of good information on tree pruning from my county extension office.   I found a great PDF file with pictures and step by step instructions, and upon searching for it again, I found it is still there, so here is a link to it:  "Pruning the Orchard"  It has a lot of good information, but the picture of their before and after samples are really hard to see so I have posted my own here.   There are some good diagrams of different parts of the tree and what to prune as well.

     The other thing I wanted to touch on quickly is spacing of branches.   Often a tree will develop a very "upward" growing pattern.  I have found this to be especially true with Apple Trees.  So it is important to insert "spacers" between branches and encourage them to spread out a bit.   Some trees are more fragile than others and occasionally in the effort to expand the space, I have broken the branch, so be very careful here.  If you look closely, to the right,  this is another apple tree, and I have
pruned it to the central leader system, and added a few branch spreaders, but I think only one is blatantly visible here.   If you look closely at the unpruned tree on the left, you can see the shape of the branch before pruning and spreading.  This is a gentle distance so as not to break the branch, but it will encourage a more lateral growth pattern.   Also the end of this branch should get some new branches this spring, and I will choose one of them next year to train outward as well.  Making the tree wider and wider each year, and trying to control the heigth.   To create a branch spreader, I simply use one of the pieces I have pruned off of the tree.  Often it is possible to find one with a "y" shape on the end that will keep it in place better.  And the pressure caused in spreading also holds the stick in place.  I rarely have them fall out, and in some cases I have to actually remove them because they were on too long.

As you can see there are two spreaders in this photo, one is circled and the other has an arrow.  The one in the back is harder to see but it is pushing that skinny twig branch out and away from the tree so it doesn't crowd the middle and prevent light and air from getting all through the tree.   It has been said that you should prune a tree so that birds can fly through.  And with an Apple tree you should have enough room to throw cats through it.  :-)  I think we could fit a cat or two!   Happy Pruning, and remember, its an art!  Enjoy it!

A Whole New OLD Way to Look at Gardening

     I recently came across an amazing film that changed everything I thought I knew about gardening, and plants.  It is well done, professionally filmed, and it has the potential to change your life.  There are several key concepts introduced here that when applied even to the simplest backyard gardens, have immediate and long lasting results.
    This is a full length film so plan sufficient time to watch it, or you can watch it in sections as it is easily set up to do it that way.

Click on photo, then scroll down to find video

     Even in my own backyard garden, I have been able to start applying some of these principles, and in the first year that I have used them, I can see some HUGE improvements and positive changes in my yard, my dirt, my plants and my crop. This years gardening should be even easier because of what I have put in place last year.

     I love the main idea of the film which is that God is the great Master Gardener, and by observing what we see in nature and learning from it, we can assist him in creating something beautiful in our own yards.  Each concept is laid out and explained in such a way that it makes amazing sense.
     I would also recommend purchasing the DVD if nothing else, just to support this great effort.
   

Time to start planting your SEEDS!

     Its almost that time!   One of my Favorite times of the year!  (OK, so I have a lot of favorite times, spring chicks, fall harvest, etc. etc.)  I just ordered a few seeds to supplement my already overgrown stockpile of Organic Garden Seeds!  I started growing Organic, non-GMO or non-hybrid seeds several years ago as I began to learn the importance not only of eating non genetically modified foods, but also protecting the earth, environment, and even our future seed stock.
     As a prepper, its important to grow plants that seed can be harvested from, dried, stored properly and used again.   Most of the seeds available in stores are what is called "HYBRID."  Hybrid means that when you plant a seed harvested from the fruit of your hybrid crop, you will not get a plant that produces true to type.   Many of these seeds produce either weak plants with growing issues, and subject to diseases, or the plant is beautiful but won't produce a healthy fruit, if any fruit at all.
     You do have to know a few things to become a successful seed saver, but with a little trial and error most people can use their own garden seeds season after season.  We will get into seed saving later on, but today I want to talk to you about planning your garden, and getting your seeds ready.

Shelley's 6 rules of Gardening:
          1 - Plant what you will eat.
          2 - Choose non-hybrid, non-GMO seeds.
          3 - Start your seeds as naturally as possible
          4-  Compost your beds, learn to use a compost pile
          5 - Mulch, Mulch, Mulch!
          6 - Experiment with different Methods, and HAVE FUN!

We are going to go over the first several points today, and then I will address the other ones individually with detailed posts and information.

Plant what you will eat.

     This is more important than some of you may realize if you are a new gardener.  It is so easy to get excited and want to plant your whole yard, and do 50 of everything just so you can feel like you've accomplished something.   But at harvest time when you are bringing in buckets of food, 1/2 of which you don't even like, it can get stressful trying to use/ give away so much food.   If eggplants gross you out, or you don't' like hot peppers, DON'T GROW THEM!
     Think about what your family eats and uses on a regular basis and start with that.   For us it is Tomatoes, Peppers, Cucumbers, Lettuce, Melons, and a few other odds and ends.  And yes, we do like Eggplant.   I'll post my Ratatouille recipe later on in the year closer to harvest time.   I also have a space for what I call my Green Smoothie Garden.   I grow Red Russian Kale, Lacinto Kale, blue Kale, and 2 varieties of Swiss Chard.   Then I go out with my Scissors every morning and chop a bunch of leaves for my smoothie!   I am soooo missing that right now!   My GS Garden was producing right up until about  a month ago when all these heavy snows hit!

Choose non-hybrid, non GMO seeds
     We talked about this a little bit already, but your probably wondering how to tell the difference between hybrid and non hybrid seeds if its not obvious.   Some of the tell tale signs of a hybrid seed, are that usually they will have a # in the title next to the item.   ie: F1 tomato, or FL0504 Hot Pepper seeds, etc.   Not always, but if it does, its definitely a hybrid.   Also if they say they are resistant to some disease or high heat, they are usually hybrid.   The verbage is critical.  Because the word "tolerant" for example is not generally used for hybrids.   So if something is drought tolerant, or tolerates drought, that is likely an indication of the plants natural properties.

Ok, so where do I find non-Gmo seeds?
     There are several online seed companies that offer quality seeds.   I will list a few of my favorites here:
               BAKER CREEK HEIRLOOM SEEDS

               VICTORY SEEDS

And there is also several options on Etsy.com, but this one is my favorite:

                CUBITS

And for PREPPERS, you'll like these storeable "Garden in a Can" options:

              GARDEN IN A CAN

              HEIRLOOM ORGANICS - SEED VAULT

 I planted Sunflowers in front of the Chicken coop to help block out the mess.

Start your seeds as naturally as possible
     So what exactly do I mean by that?   Learn about each type of seed, and figure out how it grows best and in what conditions.   If those conditions exist naturally where you live, there is no need to go to extra trouble getting your seed to grow.   Many nurseries sell some of the most ridiculous seedlings I've ever seen, and i have to admit early in my gardening career, I fell prey.   For example, why would somebody buy started corn plants?   In most parts of the country, you can practically drop corn seed on the ground, and it will grow.   Just know when its safe to drop it, and your all good.   With corn, you have to  make sure the ground is warm enough (about 70) and it will germinate no problem.
     Cucumbers and Melons are often started indoors, but if you live in an area that has nice hot summers, you can drop seed in the ground in July and have a bigger cucumber than the nursery plant you bought and planted in May.   So when I say start as naturally as possible, I mean KNOW your seeds, and your weather, and plant accordingly so you don't waste seeds.
     I start most of my plants indoors (except corn, ha ha), OR I use those green "Wall of Water" cones to start some directly in the garden much sooner than I normally could.  We have long winters, and a good chance of at least one late freeze every spring, so its generally not safe to set plants out into the garden until mid-may, and this year I'm thinking more like first of june.   But alot of expert gardeners around here do start seeds directly in the garden and try to protect them.  
     Depending on the type of seed, I have few methods.  For any of my "greens" that i want to start ahead, I usually get a foil tin from the dollar store with a lid, fill with organic seed starter (That I have pre-moistened) from the nursery or hardware store,  and try to systematically sprinkle the seeds over the top.  Not too many, but quite a few.  Then I get some more seed starter, and lightly sprinkle just a bit over the seeds.   If your doing it in your house in a sunny window, Use the lid.  However in a greenhouse, I learned the hard way, it gets way too hot in that little container when the sun comes out in the afternoon, and I fried my seeds.  So if starting in a greenhouse that is somewhat climate controlled, I wouldn't recommend using the lid.

I like to do a more of a mixed use garden so that its pretty as well as edible.  Too bad I hadn't removed the old supports for the winter garden extender we put up in the fall.  It obviously did not hold up well.

     For Tomatoes and other Vegetables, I like to use Coconut Fiber Pellets.  Really, just because I am somewhat lazy.   Its a heck of a lot of work to fill seed trays with dirt, and tap down each little section.  I prefer to just add water, and let the "pot" or in this case pellet, prep itself.  Then I just use the handle of a plastic spoon to make my little holes to deposit seeds in.   I will do another post with pictures and details as soon as I get MY seeds planted here in the next week or two.   I don't have a specific date I do it, it just goes on the to-do list for February, and when I feel ready to do it, I go for it!   I need to tidy up my greenhouse first and make a place for all these seed flats.  

Also as a resource, I want to point you to a site about winter sowing seeds.  Its not too late to start your seeds this way, and when I tried it, it worked out great.   Especially for flowers.
The idea is to sow your seeds inside mini greenhouses made of milk jugs or other plastic containers.  You water them, and seal them, with the exception of a few small holes for ventilation, and then set them outside.   The seeds are more protected than they would be in the garden, but they also are in the natural temperature so you don't have to harden them off when they sprout.   Go check out this site for a great description with photos:

WINTER SOWING

Stay tuned for posts on each one of my other 3 rules individually!  Composting, Mulching, & Garden Methods.  Please be sure to subscribe via email, rss, or facebook, up on the right hand corner.  

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